3D Models for Chitubox

Chitubox supports STL, OBJ, and FBX for input, and exports to printer-native formats like .ctb (Chitu Systems), .cbddlp, .photon, .photons, .phz, .pws, and other resin printer formats. STL is the universal input format — virtually all 3D model marketplaces offer STL downloads, and Chitubox imports them directly. Chitubox does NOT accept 3MF, GLB, or BLEND natively. For resin printing, always start with STL and let Chitubox handle hollowing, supports, and slicing to the printer's native format.

For beginners, pre-supported STL files save significant time and reduce print failures. Pre-supported models have supports already built into the mesh geometry — they print exactly as intended by the creator, optimized for specific resin printers. Unsupported (raw) STL files give you full control: you add supports manually in Chitubox, which lets you optimize for your specific printer, resin, and orientation. Advanced users often prefer unsupported files for flexibility. Check the model listing: quality creators specify whether supports are included and which printers were tested.

For miniatures in Chitubox, recommended settings: layer height 0.03–0.05mm (finer = more detail but slower); anti-aliasing 4–8× for smooth curves; exposure time depends on your resin and printer — start with manufacturer recommendations and tune. Hollowing: hollow the model at 2.5–3mm wall thickness to reduce resin use and suction cup forces; add 2–3 drain holes (4–6mm diameter) to release trapped resin. Supports: light supports at 0.4mm tip, medium supports for heavy overhangs. Orientation: 30–45° angle reduces flat surface area against the FEP and improves detail. Always do a small test print before a full batch.

Yes. STL files from Proofly work with any resin printer that Chitubox supports, including Elegoo Saturn, Elegoo Mars, Anycubic Photon, Anycubic Mono, Phrozen Sonic Mini, and dozens of other MSLA/LCD/DLP printers. The STL file is universal — Chitubox handles the conversion to your specific printer's format (.ctb for Chitu printers, .photon for older Anycubic, etc.). If a creator's listing says 'pre-supported for Elegoo Saturn', the supports are optimized for that build plate size and FEP tension but will generally work on similar-sized printers.

A resin-ready model for Chitubox has: (1) High detail density — resin excels at fine details; polygons that are too low-poly will show facets at 0.035mm layers. (2) Watertight (manifold) mesh — no holes, no non-manifold edges; required for hollowing in Chitubox to work correctly. (3) Appropriate scale — resin printers often print smaller objects; many figurines are 32mm or 75mm scale. Check the model's listed dimensions. (4) Support-friendly overhangs — or pre-supported geometry already built in. (5) Drain holes — if pre-hollowed, quality creators add drain holes to prevent resin trapping. Look for tags like 'resin', 'msla-ready', 'pre-supported', or 'fdm-and-resin' in the model listing.

Yes, but with caveats. FDM models are often designed with thick walls (1.2mm+) and minimal surface detail because FDM layer lines are visible at 0.2mm. Resin printing at 0.035mm reveals every polygon — so models with visible facets from low triangle counts will look poor. FDM models also rarely need hollowing (they're small or sparse), while large resin prints benefit from hollowing to reduce resin cost and prevent suction issues. Models tagged 'resin-optimized' or 'high-poly' on Proofly are better starting points for resin. That said, many models — especially figurines and decorative pieces — work great in both FDM and resin.